If you’re looking for a fun and easy project to work on, then you should definitely try making this Crochet Panda Baby Hoodie!
The pattern is FREE and comes with a step-by-step VIDEO tutorial (purchase the ad-free PDF pattern here).
This post for a crochet panda baby hoodie may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information).
SUPER CUTE DESIGN
This adorable hoodie is perfect for keeping your little one warm and cozy. Make a couple of panda appliques and sew them on (along with two animal ears), and you’ve got yourself a super cute little outfit!
The first step in making your crochet panda baby hoodie is to start on the yoke. This is done by working in rows and making simple increases to create the shape. Once the yoke is complete, you’ll move on to the body of the cardigan. The buttons are built in as you go along.
To make the sleeves you’ll re-attach the yarn to each underarm and work in rounds. If you’d like to add a hood, you’ll re-attach the yarn to the neckline and work up a few simple rows.
Only basic stitches are used throughout this pattern, so it’s great if you’re relatively new to crochet. Experienced crocheters – you’ll love how quickly you can whip up this little jacket!
This crochet panda baby hoodie is part of a set. Make the matching hat, booties and blanket.
FINISHED SIZES
The pattern for this cardigan is available in eight sizes.
The free version below covers ages 0-3 months and 6-12 months.
If you’d like to make sizes newborn, 3-6 months, 1-2 years, 2-3 years, 3-4 years and 4-5 years, you can find the instructions (along with the sizes covered in this article) in the PDF version
PDF PRINTABLE PATTERNS!
If you would prefer an ad-free, printable version of this crochet panda baby hoodie, you can purchase it from my Etsy store
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VIDEO TUTORIAL
Crochet along with me to make this crochet panda baby hoodie!
Just click on the play button below (you can view the full tutorial on the Maisie and Ruth YouTube channel).
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CROCHET PANDA BABY HOODIE: A FREE PATTERN
This article for a crochet panda baby hoodie may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information
Please carefully read all the information below.
LEVEL
“Projects may include simple stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping”.
Source: Craft Yarn Council of America’s www.YarnStandards.com
PATTERN NOTES
- US crochet terminology used throughout
- There is one set of instructions, which cover ages 0-3 months and 6-12 months (the other sizes mentioned above can be found in the ad-free PDF version, which is available for purchase.
- Use the weight of yarn and hook size according to the size of hoodie that you wish to make (details below in ‘Supplies’).
- For size 0-3 months, you can use any #3 / light worsted / DK / 8 ply yarn for this project, providing you meet the gauge specified.
- For age 6-12 months you can use any #4 / worsted / aran / 10 ply yarn for this project, providing you meet the gauge specified.
- The hoodie is worked in one piece from the neck edge down. You will then re-attach your yarn to work both sleeves and the hood.
- When working the yoke: the ch2 turning chain counts as the first stitch of the next row (insert a stitch marker into the top of the ch2). Therefore, you should make the first stitch of the row in the next stitch. At the end of rows, make sure that you crochet into the top of the ch2.
- When working the yoke: there are two extra stitches on the right-hand side as this is where you will sew your buttons on.
- Throughout the pattern, I refer to the left and right side of your work. Please see the image below for further clarification:
SUPPLIES
- 0-3 MONTHS:
YARN: Any category #3 / light worsted / DK / 8 ply yarn.
YARN FOR HOODIE (COLOUR A):
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, 137yds / 1.8oz (125m / 50g). Colours shown: Bubblegum Pink (451) and Dolphin Blue (437). For each size you’ll need:
0-3 months: 4 balls
YARN FOR PANDA APPLIQUE (COLOURS B & C):
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, 137yds / 1.8oz (125m / 50g). You’ll need just a scrap amount of yarn in the following colours:
Colour B. Paper White (401)
Colour C. Pure Black (402)
CROCHET HOOKS:
HOODIE: G (4MM)
PANDA APPLIQUE: 3MM
BUTTONS:
0-3 months – 4 x 15mm buttons
- 6-12 MONTHS / 1-2 YEARS:
YARN: Any category #4 / worsted / aran / 10 ply yarn.
YARN FOR HOODIE (COLOUR A):
Stylecraft Special Aran, 214 yds / 3.5 oz (196m / 100g. For each size you’ll need (in the colour of your choice):
6-12 months: 4 balls
YARN FOR PANDA APPLIQUE (COLOURS B & C):
Stylecraft Special Aran, 214 yds / 3.5 oz (196m / 100g). You’ll need just a scrap amount of yarn in the following colours:
Colour B. White (1001)
Colour C. Black (1002)
CROCHET HOOKS:
HOODIE: H (5mm)
PANDA APPLIQUE: G (4mm)
BUTTONS:
6-12 months – 4 x 20mm buttons
GAUGE / TENSION
In order to achieve the correct size and fit, it is important to test your gauge with a sample square before you begin.
If your tension is tight (too many stitches to ″), try using a larger hook.
if your tension is loose (fewer stitches to ″), use a smaller hook.
0-3 months (G / 4mm hook):
26 stitches & 15 rows = 6″ (15cm) in double crochet
6-12 months (H / 5mm hook):
20 stitches & 12 rows = 6” (15cm) in double crochet
FINISHED SIZE
STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)
beg – beginning
BH – buttonhole
ch(s) – chain(s)
dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.
fasten off – To fasten off securely, work one chain, then cut the yarn leaving a 5 – 6” tail. Pull the tail through the loop that is on your hook. Tighten gently.
sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.
sk – skip: Do not crochet into this stitch / space.
sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, you will have 2 loops on your hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed.
sp(s) – space(es)
st(s) – stitch(es)
Turn: I prefer to turn my work clockwise.
* to * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.
( ) – Sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch or space. Or sets of stitches to be worked as many times as directed.
[ ] – The total number of stitches at the end of a row.
SPECIAL STITCHES
V-st – (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in same stitch
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
With Colour A
Chain 64
OPTIONAL (for a neater edge): When working on row 1 below, work your stitches through the back bump.
Row 1. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook (skp’d 2 ch count as your 1st dc), 1dc in next 10 ch, V-st in next ch, 1dc in next 9 ch, V-st in next ch, 1dc in next 15 ch, V-st in next ch, 1dc in next 9 ch, V-st in next ch, 1dc in next 14 ch, TURN [67 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 2 (BH). Ch2 (counts as your 1st st here and throughout), 1dc in next 14 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 11 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 17 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 11 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 9 sts, ch1, sk next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [74 dc, 5x ch1 sps].
Row 3. Ch2, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in next ch1-sp, 1dc in next 10 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 13 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 19 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 13 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 15 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [83 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 4. Ch2, 1dc in next 16 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 15 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 21 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 15 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 14 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [91 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 5. Ch2, 1dc in next 15 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 17 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 23 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 17 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 17 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [99 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 6. Ch2, 1dc in next 18 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 19 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 25 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 19 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 16 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [107 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 7. Ch2, 1dc in next 17 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 21 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 27 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 21 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 19 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [115 dc, 4x ch1 sps].
Row 8 (BH). Ch2, 1dc in next 20 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 23 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 29 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 23 sts, V-st in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 15 sts, ch1, sk next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in top of ch2, TURN [122 dc, 5x ch-1 sps].
DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES
Row 9. Ch2, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 16 sts, (1dc, ch3) in next ch1 sp, sk next 25 sts, 1dc in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 31 sts, (1dc, ch3) in next ch1 sp, sk next 25 sts, 1dc in next ch1 sp, 1dc in next 21 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, [77 dc, 2x ch3 sps].
BODY OF HOODIE
Continuing with the body:
Row 10. Ch2, 1dc in next 22 sts, 3dc in next ch3 sp, 1dc in next 33 sts, 3dc in next ch3 sp, 1dc in next 20 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [83 sts].
Rows 11-13. Ch2, 1dc in next 81 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN, [83 sts].
Row 14 (BH). Ch2, 1dc in next 78 sts, ch1, sk next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN, [82 sts, 1x ch1 sp].
Row 15. Ch2, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in ch1-sp, 1dc in next 78 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN, [83 sts].
Rows 16-19. Ch2, 1dc in next 81 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN, [83 sts].
Row 20 (BH). Ch2, Repeat row 14, TURN, [82 sts, 1x ch1 sp].
Row 21. Repeat Row 15, TURN, [83 sts].
Row 22. Repeat row 16, [83 sts].
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.
EDGING DOWN BUTTONHOLE BAND
Attach yarn to top corner of left front panel.
Row 1. Ch1, *(1sc, ch1)*, repeat from * to * down left front panel, ending with sl st in bottom corner.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew 4 buttons on right front panel.
SLEEVES: RIGHT SLEEVE
It’s time to work on the sleeves now and you’ll begin with the right sleeve first.
You will be working into the 25 stitches that you skipped in row 9 (I placed a marker into both the 1st and 25th stitch).
8 extra stitches will also be created, giving you a total of 33 stitches when working the sleeves.
With the back of your work facing you, attach your yarn to the end of row 9 of the yoke, at the right armhole.
Round 1. Ch2 (does not count as your 1st st), 1dc in same st (at base of ch2), 1dc in next 25 sts around armhole, work an extra 7 dc evenly spaced at underarm area, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [33 sts].
Round 2. Ch2 (does not count as your 1st st), 1dc in same st (at base of ch2 – see pattern notes 1dc in 3rd ch from hook), 1dc in next 32 sts, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [33 sts].
Rounds 3-16: Repeat round 2.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.
Turn up the last 2 rows to create a little cuff.
LEFT SLEEVE
With the back of your work facing you, attach your yarn to the end of row 9 of the yoke, at the left armhole.
Round 1. Ch2 (does not count as your 1st st), 1dc in same st (at base of ch2), work 7 dc evenly spaced at underarm area, 1dc in next 25 sts around armhole, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [33 sts].
Round 2. Ch2 (does not count as your 1st st), 1dc in same st (at base of ch2), 1dc in next 32 sts, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [33 sts].
Rounds 3-16: Repeat round 2.
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.
Turn up the last 2 rows to create a little cuff.
HOOD
With the front of your work facing you, attach yarn into the 7th stitch from the neck edge on the right front panel.
Row 1. Ch2 (counts as your 1st st here and throughout), 1dc in same st, 1dc in next 7 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 9 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 15 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 9 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st (leave remaining sts unworked), TURN [63 sts].
Rows 2-18. Ch2, 1dc in next 61 sts, 1dc in top of ch2, TURN [63 sts].
SEAMING THE HOOD
To seam the hood, turn it inside out so that the wrong side is now facing you.
Bring the two sides of the top of the hood together.
Working under both loops on each side, seam the two sides together using the single crochet stitch.
Remember: I show you how to seam the hood together in the video tutorial (linked above).
Once you’ve finished seaming the hood, cut yarn, fasten off and weave in your ends.
Turn the hood out so that the right side is now facing you.
Turn hood back to create a brim.
EARS FOR HOODIE
Chain 4 and slip stitch to 1st chain to form a ring.
Round 1. Ch1 (does not count as your 1st st here and throughout), 11 sc in centre of ring (work over yarn tail), sl st to 1st sc to join [11 sc].
Round 2. Ch1, 2sc in same st (at base of ch1), 2sc in next 10 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join [22 sc].
Rounds 3 – 7: Ch1, 1sc in same st (at base of ch1), 1sc in next 21 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join [22 sc].
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail of approx. 15” / 38cm for sewing on to hood.
ATTACH EARS TO HOOD
Sew the ears on to the hood, just above the brim, on either side of the seam (I like to pin the ears in place and use the whip stitch to sew them on).
PANDA APPLIQUE
HEAD
Using Colour B
Make a magic circle (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).
Round 1. Ch1, 6sc in the magic circle, do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6 sts].
Alternative Round 1. Ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (work over yarn tail), do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6 sts].
Round 2. 2sc in next 6 sts [12 sts].
Round 3. *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st*, repeat from * to * 6 times [18 sts].
Round 4. 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st*, repeat from * to * 5 times, ending with 1sc in last st [24 sts].
Round 5. *2sc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 6 times, sl st to 1st sc or make an invisible join [30 sts].
Cut yarn (leave a long tail approx. 12” / 30cm for sewing on later).
RIGHT EAR
Note: For demonstration purposes, I’m using blue coloured yarn. When working with black yarn, make sure that you’re working in a well-lit area!
With Colour C
Attach yarn to any stitch.
Round 1. Ch1 (does not count as your first st), 2sc in same st (at base of ch1), (2sc, sl st) in next st, TURN [5 sts].
Round 2. Ch1 (does not count as your first st), 1sc in next 4 sts, sl st at base of 1st sc made in round 1 [5 sts].
Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.
LEFT EAR
Attach yarn to the 8th stitch along from last stitch worked for right ear.
Work left ear as right ear above.
EYES
Using Colour C
Make a magic circle (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).
Round 1. Ch1, 6sc in the magic circle, sl st to 1st sc or make an invisible join (when cutting yarn, leave about 10” / 25cm for sewing on later), [6 sts].
Alternative Round 1. Ch2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (work over yarn tail), sl st to 1st sc or make an invisible join (when cutting yarn, leave about 10” / 25cm for sewing on later), [6 sts].
NOSE
Make a slip knot (leave a yarn tail about 6” / 15cm) and place it on your hook, ch1, cut yarn (leave about 6” / 15cm) and pull yarn through. Pull on yarn tail to create a little ball.
Weave both yarn tails through the centre of the head, in between the 2nd and 3rd rounds.
Tie a few knots at the back of your work to secure. Weave in ends.
ATTACH EYES
Sew your eyes onto either side of the nose.
SHARE YOUR WORK!
I really hope that you enjoyed the free pattern for this crochet panda baby hoodie!
I would LOVE to see photos of your completed cardigan… please tag me on Instagram using @maisieandruth and / or #maisieandruth