Crochet Baby Onesie Pattern (The Little Logan Romper)

If you enjoy making baby outfits, I have a great FREE crochet baby onesie pattern for you right here on the blog!

There’s also a step by step VIDEO tutorial to accompany the pattern.

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The Little Logan baby romper is not only super cute, but it’s also a quick and easy crochet project for you.

Just have a look at the step-by-step photo and VIDEO tutorial below to see how simple it is to make this newborn sized onesie!

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VIDEO TUTORIAL

Crochet along with me to make this baby romper! Just click on the play button below:

 

Part two of this tutorial is here

CROCHET BABY SET

This crochet baby onesie pattern is part of a set consisting of a bonnet, booties ,a little bear teething toy and an adorable matching baby blanket.

This baby set would make the loveliest gift for a new baby and it really wouldn’t take you all that long to whip the items up.

I decided to add a little bear applique onto my baby onesie. You can adorn the romper with another animal or any other embellishment – the choice and possibilities are endless!

 

YARN USED

For this design I used 2 balls of Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/4, which is made from 100% soft and natural cotton.

This yarn is a real joy to work with as it’s SO soft and has the most wonderful drape to it. It’s very easy to work with too with no splitting.

The Rainbow Cotton 8/4 is machine washable, comes in over 100 beautiful colours, and is OEKO-TEX® certified (no. 2076-311).

It really is a great option for baby and children’s clothing!

SUBSTITUTE YARN

Hobbii advertise this yarn as a superfine, fingering yarn but I consider it to be more a of sport / 4 ply yarn.

Feel free to substitute this crochet baby onesie pattern with any category #2 (fine) / sport / 4 ply yarn.

As long as your gauge matches the gauge detailed below, you’ll be absolutely fine for size.

Let’s move on now to all the important details of this crochet baby onesie pattern…

CROCHET BABY ONESIE PATTERN: INSTRUCTIONS

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

Please carefully read all the information below 😊

LEVEL

Easy. See details of project difficulty levels at the Craft Yarn Council website.

PATTERN NOTES

• US crochet terms used.
• The ch1 turning chain does not count as the first stitch of the next row. Therefore, you should make the first stitch of the row in the same stitch (at the base of the ch1). At the end of rows, do not crochet into the top of the ch1.
• The ch3 turning chain does count as the first stitch of the next row; please do not crochet into the same stitch. Instead, make one double crochet into the next stitch. At the end of rows, it’s important that you crochet into the top of the beginning ch3.
• The romper is worked top-down.
• The first 8 rows are worked flat for the button opening. The yoke will be gradually increased by working 2 double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• In row 8 you will create two armholes.
• At the end of row 8, you will join your onesie to start working in rounds and form the middle part of the romper. Make sure that you TURN your work at the end of every round (to match the texture of the stitch that was created in the yoke).
• Once the middle part is complete, you will attach the yarn to the back of the romper to create the back lower part.
• Once the back lower part is completed, the yarn will then be attached to the front in order to work on the front lower part.
• The yarn will then be attached to the centre of both underarms, one at a time, and the right and left sleeve will be worked in rounds.
• Lastly, edging will be applied to the leg opening and back fastening of the yoke (2 button loops will be formed).

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Category #2 (fine) / sport / 4 ply yarn. I used 2 balls of Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/4,186yds / 1.75oz (170m / 50g). For the blue romper I used the colour Baby Blue (032); for the pink romper, I used the colour Antique Rose (061).
• Crochet hook: Size E (3.5mm)
• 5 buttons- 13/32″ (10mm)
• Stitch markers x 2
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

GAUGE / TENSION

18 stitches & 11 rows = 4″ in double crochet

In order to achieve the correct size and fit, it is important to test your gauge with a sample square before you begin.

If your tension is tight (too many stitches to 4″), try using a larger hook.

if your tension is loose (fewer stitches to 4″), use a smaller hook.

FINISHED SIZE

NEWBORN:

Width (across chest): 6 3/4″ (17cm)

Length: 10.75″ (27.25cm)

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

beg – beginning

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.

dc2tog – double crochet two together (also known as a dc decrease): Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 3 loops. Dc2tog completed.

sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.

sk – skip: Do not crochet into this stitch / space.

sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, you will have 2 loops on your hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed.

sp(s) – space(s)

st(s) – stitch(es)

Turn: I prefer to turn my work clockwise.

* to * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

[ ] – The total number of stitches at the end of a row.

USEFUL TUTORIALS

• How to Increase in Crochet
• Crochet Turning Chain (Does it Count as a Stitch?)
• How to Dc2tog (Double Crochet Two Together)

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE

Chain 45 (make your chain fairly loose)

Row 1. 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in every ch until end of the foundation chain, TURN [44sts].

Row 2. Ch3 (counts as your first st here and throughout), 1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [55 sts].

Row 3. Ch3, 1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [66 sts].

Row 4. Ch3, 1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [77 sts].

Row 5. Ch3, 1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [88 sts].

Row 6. Ch3, 1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [99 sts].

Row 7. Ch3, 1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [110 sts].

At the end of row 7, your piece should look like this:

The length should be 2.5″ (6.5cm) approximately.

DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES

In row 8 you will create two little armholes.

Also, at the end of this row you will join your work so that you can begin working in the round.

Row 8. Ch3, 1dc in next 14 sts, ch1, sk 24 sts, 1dc in next 32 sts, ch1, sk 24 sts, 1dc in next 15 sts, sl st into the top of the ch3 you made at the beginning of the row to join, TURN [62 sts, 2 x ch1 sps].

As you can see from the image below, you have divided your onesie for the sleeves and have created two armholes.

Because you have joined both sides by slip stitching into the top of the beginning ch3, you are now ready to start working in rounds.

MIDDLE SECTION

Round 1. Ch3 (counts as your first st here and throughout), 1 dc in next 14 sts, 1dc in ch1 sp, 1dc in next 32 sts, 1dc in ch1 sp, 1dc in next 15 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, TURN (64 sts).

Rounds 2 – 12: Ch3, 1dc in next 63 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, TURN (64 sts).

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in your ends.

NOTE: At the end of round 12, instead of joining with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch3, I prefer to make an invisible join.

This method is much neater and as we’ll be working into these stitches again, using an invisible join makes it much easier to do this.

Measuring from the top of the shoulder, your baby onesie should measure 7.75″ (19.5cm) in length.

At this point, your onesie should be looking like this:

BACK LOWER PART

It is now time to work on the back lower part of your onesie.

You will work decreases at each edge of this section.

Make sure your work is lying with the back part facing up and away from you, as demonstrated in the image below:

Place a stitch marker into the stitch at the bottom right hand corner of your work. This will be the first stitch that you work into.

Place another stitch marker into the stitch at the bottom left hand corner of your work. This will be the last stitch that you work into.

Make sure that you have 34 stitches along this section (this leaves 30 stitches for the front lower part, which we will work into later).

At the bottom right hand corner, attach your yarn to the stitch where the first stitch marker is located:

Row 1. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), (dc2tog) twice, 1dc in next 26 sts, (dc2tog) twice, TURN [30 sts].

Row 2. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 26 sts, dc2tog, TURN [28 sts].

Row 3.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 24 sts, dc2tog, TURN [26 sts].

Row 4.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, TURN [24 sts].

Row 5.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog, TURN [22 sts].

Row 6.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, TURN [20 sts].

Row 7.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog, TURN [18 sts].

Row 8.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog, TURN [16 sts].

Row 9.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog, TURN [14 sts].

Row 10.  Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog, TURN [12 sts].

Cut your yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

The back lower part of your crochet baby onesie is now completed.

This is what your romper should look like at this point:

FRONT LOWER PART

For the front lower part, you will work decreases at each edge of this section.

To work the front lower part, ensure that your work is lying front side facing up and away from you:

30 stitches will remain at the front of your work. To create the front lower part, you will work across these 30 stitches.

Place a stitch marker into the stitch at the bottom right hand corner of your work. This will be the first stitch that you work into.

Place another stitch marker into the stitch at the bottom left hand corner of your work. This will be the last stitch that you work into.

Attach your yarn to the first stitch at the bottom right hand corner:

Row 1. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), (dc2tog) twice, 1dc in next 22sts, (dc2tog) twice, TURN [26 sts].

Row 2. Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, 1dc in next 18sts, (dc2tog) twice, TURN [22 sts].

Row 3. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 18sts, dc2tog, TURN [20 sts].

Row 4. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 16sts, dc2tog, TURN [18 sts].

Row 5. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 14sts, dc2tog, TURN [16 sts].

Row 6. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 12sts, dc2tog, TURN [14 sts].

Row 7. Ch1, dc2tog, 1dc in next 10sts, dc2tog, TURN [12 sts].

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

At this point, your crochet baby onesie should be looking like this:

SLEEVES

It’s time to work on the sleeves now.

Beginning at the underarm area, attach your yarn:

Round 1. Ch2 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1dc in same st, 1dc in next 30 sts, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [31 sts].

Round 2. Ch2, dc2tog, 1dc in next 27 sts, dc2tog, sl st to 1st dc2tog to join, TURN [29 sts].

Rounds 3 – 12. Ch2, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next 28 sts, sl st to 1st dc to join, TURN [29 sts].

At the end of round 12, cut your yarn, fasten off and weave in your ends.

NOTE: At the end of round 12, for a neater finish, you may prefer to make an invisible join instead of slip stitching to the first dc.

Repeat the above process for the other sleeve.

EDGING FOR LEG OPENINGS

I decided to place one round of single crochet stitches around the leg openings and fastening area.

To begin, attach your yarn to the bottom corner of the back lower part, as demonstrated in the photo below:

Round 1. Ch1 (does not count as your 1st st), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 11 sts, sc evenly around first leg opening, 1sc in next 12 sts along bottom of front lower part, sc evenly around second leg opening, sl st to 1st sc to join.

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

EDGING FOR BACK AND NECK OPENING

The last step is to place some simple edging around the back and neck opening of the romper.

This will also be made up of single crochet stitches.

When working the edging, you will also make 2 loops for your buttons at the back opening.

You will begin in the lower left corner of the back opening, work up to the neckline, crochet along the neckline and work down the other side of the back opening to the lower right hand corner.

Attach your yarn to the lower left corner (where my hook is):

Row 1. Ch1 (does not count as your first st), 1sc in same st, ch3, 1sc in same st (1 button loop made), sc evenly up left side to just before the corner edge of the neckline, ch3, sc in same st (2nd button loop made), 2sc in corner st, 1sc in each st along neckline, 2sc in corner st, sc evenly down right side.

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

FINISHING

Sew three buttons on the back lower part, at the bottom.

Push the buttons between the stitches on the front lower part:

Sew two buttons on the back of your romper, on the opposite side to where the button loops are:

And that’s it! You’ve completed this adorable little crochet baby onesie pattern! 😍

PIN IT FOR LATER!

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I hope that you enjoyed this crochet baby onesie pattern 😊

I would love to see photos of your finished onesie… please tag me on Instagram using @maisieandruth

And remember to pin this pattern for later if you can’t make it right now!

Happy crocheting,