Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern (Bella the Bunny)

I have a great FREE crochet amigurumi pattern for you right here on the blog!

Continue reading to get the instructions and find out how you can work up Bella the Bunny, an adorable baby teething toy!

And to purchase an ad-free printable version, please visit the Etsy store HERE

My free crochet amigurumi pattern for Bella the Bunny is a small crochet project that is suitable for crocheters of all levels – even beginner ones.

This baby teether is quick and easy to work up, making it perfect for a last-minute baby shower gift (or for your own little one also!).

PDF PRINTABLE PATTERNS!

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CROCHET BABY SET

Talking of gifts for a newborn baby, Bella the Bunny is part of a crochet set that I designed; the Freya Frilly Romper, Gracie Baby Bootie and Bluebell Baby Bonnet are all free patterns on the Maisie and Ruth Blog.

All these patterns are aimed at the beginner crocheter as they use basic crochet stitches and include many photos of the process to steer you in the right direction and make sure that you’re on the right track.

YARN USED

The yarn used in this pattern is Paintbox Yarns Baby DK, a light Category 3 yarn.

Made from a blend of acrylic and nylon, it’s an incredibly soft yarn that I often use for baby garments. However, it’s also suitable for amigurumi as it doesn’t stretch and therefore maintains its shape very well.

Bella the Bunny will definitely stand the test of time, even when inquisitive little hands start squeezing and chewing on her, as babies inevitably do with their toys!

If you’re ready for this free crochet amigurumi pattern, let’s head to the tutorial now and find out how to make this delightful little bunny…

BELLA THE BUNNY: A FREE CROCHET AMIGURUMI PATTERN

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Before you begin, please carefully read all the information below… I’ve included useful points in this free crochet amigurumi pattern that will be helpful.

LEVEL

Easy (see details of project levels at the Craft Yarn Council).

PATTERN NOTES

US crochet terms used throughout.
The bunny head and ears are worked in continuous rounds: you do not join to the first stitch at the beginning of the round. Working in this way ensures that there is no seam.
When working in continuous rounds, it’s important to attach a stitch marker to the first stitch of each round otherwise it will be extremely hard to spot the beginning of each round.
Increases will be made in the head and ears by placing 2 single crochet (2sc) in the same stitch.
When making the decreases, you will use the invisible single crochet decrease. This variation of the regular single crochet decrease (sc2tog) is easy to do and it makes the decrease stitch virtually indistinguishable from a regular stitch.
You will stuff the head. The ears will remain unstuffed.

MATERIALS

Yarn: #3, light worsted / DK / 8 ply:

Paintbox Yarns Baby DK (183 yds/ 1.8oz [167m / 50g]):

1 ball in the colour Champagne White (1702)

Scrap amount of yarn in the colour Mint Green (760) for the frilly collar

Scrap amount of Candyfloss Pink (749) for the nose

Scrap amount of black yarn for the eyes

Crochet Hook: D (3mm)
Stitch marker
Polyester toy filling
Wood teething ring: 2 ¼ ” (5.5cm) to 2 ½” (6.25cm) in diameter. I recommend that you choose an organic, non-toxic wooden ring, preferably CPSIA compliant.
Scissors
Tapestry needle

GAUGE

22 sts and 24 rows = 4” (10cm) in single crochet

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.

fasten off – To fasten off securely, work one chain, then cut the yarn leaving a 5 – 6” tail. Pull the tail through the loop that is on your hook. Tighten gently.

Inv sc dec – invisible single crochet decrease: Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch (2 loops on your hook). Insert your hook into the front loop only of the following stitch (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over, pull through the first 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). Yarn over, pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook. 1 invisible single crochet decrease completed.

sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.

sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, you will have 2 loops on your hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed/

st(s) – stitch(es)

* to * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

( ) – Sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch or space.

[ ] – The total number of stitches at the end of a row.

USEFUL TUTORIALS

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

HEAD

Make a magic circle (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).

Round 1. 6sc in the magic circle, do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6sts].

Alternative Round 1. Ch2, 6sc in 2^nd ch from hook, do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6sts].

Round 2. 2sc in each st around [12 sts].

The image below was taken at the end of round 2. As you are working in continuous rounds, place a stitch marker into the first stitch of each round. This will ensure that you can easily keep track of the beginning of rounds.

Round 3. (1sc in next st, 2sc in next st) 6 times [18 sts].

Round 4. (1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st) 6 times [24 sts].

Round 5. (1sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st) 6 times [30 sts].

Round 6. (1sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st) 6 times [36 sts].

At the end of round 6, your work should measure 2 1/4″ (5.5cm).

Rounds 7 – 11. 1sc in each st around [36 sts].

You will now start your decreases.

Round 12. (1sc in next 4 sts, 1 inv sc dec) 6 times [30 sts].

Round 13. (1sc in next 3 sts, 1 inv sc dec) 6 times [24 sts].

Round 14. (1sc in next 2 sts, 1 inv sc dec) 6 times [18 sts].

Round 15. (1sc in next st, 1 inv sc dec) 6 times (12 sts).

At the end of round 15, firmly stuff the head with polyester filling before moving on to the last round:

Round 16. (1sc in next 2sts, 1 inv sc dec) 6 times [9 sts].

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail to attach head to teething ring later on.

The circumference of the head should be 6 1/4″ (16cm) approx.

EARS (MAKE 2)

Make a magic circle (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).

Round 1. 6sc in the magic circle, do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6sts].

Alternative Round 1. Ch2, 6sc in 2^nd ch from hook, do not join round, instead place a st marker in the first sc of the round [6sts].

Round 2. (1sc in next st, 2sc in next st) 3 times [9 sts].

Round 3 . (1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st) 3 times [12 sts].

Round 4. (1sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st) 3 times [15 sts].

Rounds 5 – 11. 1sc in each st around [15 sts].

At the end of round 11, your ear should measure:

W – 1 1/2″ (3.5cm) approx.

L – 1 3/4″ (4.5cm) approx.

Now seam the ear shut with a sl st seam.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the ear to the head after.

It is time to shape the ear. Position your ear so that the loop is on the left. Insert your hook into the opposite corner from back to front, as shown by my hook in the photo below:

Next, grab the loop with your hook and pull it through:

Now the ear has some shape to it, resembling more of a bunny ear:

RUFFLED COLLAR

Ch11

Row 1. 1dc in 3^rd ch from hook (counts as your first st), 4dc in same ch, *5dc in next ch*, repeat from * to * across to end of foundation ch, TURN [45sts].

Row 2. Ch2 (counts as your first st), 1dc in next 44 sts [45 sts].

Cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing a couple of stitches to join the collar later.

When you have assembled your bunny, wrap the collar around the base of the head and with your needle and yarn, join both sides together with a couple of stitches.

COVER FOR TEETHING RING

Ch22

Row 1. 1sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1sc in next 20 ch, TURN [21 sts].

Row 2. Ch1 (does not count as your first st), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 20 sts, TURN [21 sts].

Rows 3 – 7. Repeat row 2.

Cut yarn and fasten off, making sure that you have left a long tail for seaming the cover around the teething ring later.

When completed, the cover should measure:

W – 1 1/2″ (3.5cm) approx.

L – 4″ (10cm) approx.

When you have completed the cover, position it over the ring and whip stitch the two sides together.

You will need to stretch the cover over the ring as you seam, but making the cover to this measurement ensures a nice snug fit and will prevent it from sliding around the teething ring:

ATTACHING HEAD AND EARS

NOTE: You can embroider the eyes and nose (see below) before sewing the head onto the teething cover, if you wish.

Sew the head to the middle of the teething cover (this doesn’t need to be especially neat as it will be covered by the ruffled collar).

Next, move on and attach the ears.

I attached the ears between the 2nd and 3rd rows from the top of the head.

When attaching the ears, a tip is to insert a couple of pins through the ears into the head. This secures everything and makes it easier to sew the ears in place:

EMBROIDER EYES

I embroidered the eyes around some stitches on the 8^th row from the top of the head.

Step 1. Thread your black yarn onto your needle.

Step 2. Starting at the side of the head, insert the needle into your work, as shown in the image below:

Step 3. Pull the needle so that the yarn comes out at the spot where you want your first eye. The end of your yarn should be left within the head so that it is fully concealed:

Step 4. Insert the needle just slightly above the hole where your yarn is protruding from, then come back through the same hole where your yarn is sticking out from:

In the image below, you can see that part of the first eye has now been formed:

Repeat step 4 twice more (if you would like a bigger eye, repeat this step as many times as you like):

Step 5. Once you are happy with the first eye, insert your needle horizontally into the head and bring it out at the point where you want your second eye to be:

You will make the second eye in exactly the same manner as the first eye that you have just completed.

EMBROIDER NOSE

I embroidered the nose over one stitch, situated on the 9^th row from the top of the head.

Step 1. Thread your needle with some pink yarn.

Step 2. Starting at the side of the head, insert the needle into your work:

Step 3. Pull the yarn out at the spot where you want your nose to be positioned. The end of your yarn should be left within the head so that it is fully concealed.

Step 4. To make a horizontal stitch for the nose, insert the needle just slightly along from where your yarn is sticking out from. Bring the needle back out through the same hole where your yarn is coming from:

Repeat step 4 once more (or as many times as you like for a bigger bunny nose):

Remember that embroidering these little details on the face can be trial and error… don’t be afraid to pull the yarn out and start again (sometimes several times over) to get the look that you want. Like everything, this step does get easier with more practise.