How to Crochet A Baby Blanket (The Robina Rainbow Blanket)

If you would like to learn how to crochet a baby blanket then continue reading to get my free pattern for the Robina Rainbow blanket!

In addition to a photo tutorial, there’s also a VIDEO to accompany this pattern… just scroll down to view it.

QUICK AND EASY CROCHET PATTERN

This baby blanket is a quick crochet project. Consisting of a 1-row repeat, it’s easy to work up – perfect for beginners.

To make it even easier, I’ve included photos detailing the main steps of the pattern.

The stitch used throughout this crochet blanket pattern is the lemon peel stitch. By using alternating single and double crochet stitches the result is a lovely textured blanket. It’s also very pretty to look at.

You can use the lemon peel stitch in a wide variety of crochet projects such as blankets, dishcloths and scarves.

RELAX WITH CROCHET

If you believe in colour therapy then this blanket is a great mood booster due to the bright rainbow colours used throughout… it certainly cheered me up anyway!

If you like relaxing with a baby blanket project in your lap, I have other patterns for you to try… the Paisley Baby Blanket and Barclay Baby Blanket are two patterns available for free on the blog.

These patterns also include photo tutorials in order to make the process clearer for you, especially if you’re a beginner crocheter.

ADJUST THE SIZE OF YOUR CROCHET BABY BLANKET

If you prefer, you can make this blanket in any size you wish…just make sure that your foundation chain is an odd number of stitches.

I used a worsted (aran) weight yarn for this project but you could consider using a bulkier yarn and larger hook so that it works up even quicker.

I also think that the blanket would look very sweet in a lighter weight yarn, a sport (4 ply) yarn perhaps.

For more information about yarn weights and corresponding hook sizes, see the Craft Yarn Council’s helpful article Standard Yarn Weight System

If you would like to resize this pattern, please check out my posts Crochet Baby Blanket Size Chart and How to Resize a Crochet Blanket Pattern. Both these articles contain useful tips and handy charts of the most common blanket sizes.

YARN USED

For this pattern I decided to use Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran.

I’m a big fan of this brand and this particular type of yarn is made from a very soft acrylic that can be easily, and very conveniently, machine washed (important when you have a baby!).

All of these factors make it a great choice of yarn for your crochet baby projects.

In designing the pattern for this blanket, I settled on a really fun colour palette consisting of six fairly bold rainbow colours, but you can make this blanket up in whatever colourway you like!

The range of colours for this yarn is extensive, so have fun selecting the shades that best suit your requirements.

SUBSTITUTE YARN

According to Yarnsub, there are many suitable substitutes for Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran.

Stylecraft Special Aran is a great alternative and one that I’ve often used for blankets.

Check with YarnSub to see whether your favourite yarn would make a good substitute, and always do a gauge swatch if the finished size is important to you.

When making the blanket, I decided to use a slightly larger hook (J / 6mm) than the recommended size. The texture of the stitch is still nice and firm but the blanket has an even lovelier drape to it, and it’s just ever so slightly squishier also!

Wondering how to make this gorgeous crochet baby Blanket? Read on to get all the details…

CROCHET BABY BLANKET: A FREE PATTERN (THE ROBINA BLANKET)

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

Before you begin, please carefully read all the information below… I’ve included useful points that will aid you in making this blanket.

LEVEL

Easy (see details of project levels at the Craft Yarn Council).

SUPPLIES

Yarn: #4, worsted / aran / 10 ply. I used 8 skeins of Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran in the following colours:

1 Skein of each colour:

Color A: Tea Rose (242)

Color B: Bubblegum Pink (250)

Color C: Peach Orange (254)

Color D: Daffodil Yellow (221)

Color E: Spearmint Green (225)

Color F: Marine Blue (233)

2 Skeins of the following colour:

Color G: Paper White (200)

Crochet Hook: Size J (6mm)
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch marker x 1

GAUGE

13 sts and 12 rows = 4″ (10cm)

FINISHED SIZE

Width – 32″ (81cm)

Length – 42″ (107cm)

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

beg – beginning

BLO sc – back loop only single crochet: Insert your hook and work a single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch (not under both loops).

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops remaining on hook. Yo, pull through 2 loops, 2 loops remaining on hook. Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.

fasten off – To fasten off securely, work one chain, then cut the yarn leaving a 5 – 6” tail. Pull the tail through the loop that is on your hook. Tighten gently.

RS – right side: The side of your work that you want to have on display – the ‘pretty’ side.

sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, 2 loops remaining on hook. Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.

sk – skip: Do not crochet into these stitches.

sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, 2 loops on hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed.

sp – space

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side: The back of your crochet piece.

* to * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

( ) – Sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch or space.

[ ] – The total number of stitches at the end of a row.

PATTERN NOTES

US crochet terms used throughout.
1-row pattern repeat (repeat row 2).
You can easily adjust the size of this blanket – make sure that your starting ch is an odd number of stitches.
The ch1 made at the beginning of each row does not count as the first sc in the row.
The first st of each row will be a sc st.
At the end of rows, your last stitch should be a dc. If you do not end with a dc then you have made an error somewhere in the row.
You will turn at the end of rows, unless otherwise indicated.
To change colours at the end of rows, work up until the point where there are 2 loops left on the hook. Wrap the new colour around the hook and pull this loop through the remaining 2 loops to complete the stitch (see photos below).
I have provided full written instructions for each row. These are then followed by photos for greater clarification.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Starting with Colour A,

Ch 85

Row 1. 1sc in the 2^nd ch from hook, 1dc in next ch, *1sc in next ch, 1dc in next ch*, repeat from * to * until end of row, TURN, [84 sts].

Repeat the instructions above from * to * until the end of the row.

You will end the row with 1dc. This is how you will end each row of the blanket (see photo below):

Row 2. Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in same st, 1dc in next st, *1sc in next st, 1dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until end of row, TURN, [84 sts].

Rows 3-5. Repeat row 2.

At the end of row 5 you will change to Colour B using the following method for a neat join between colours:

Work the last dc st as normal, up until the point where you have 2 loops left on your hook (see image below):

Grab the new colour and fold it so that you form a loop (leave a 5 – 6 inch tail for weaving in later). Place the loop on your hook (see image below):

Pull the loop in the new colour through the remaining 2 loops on your hook (see photo below):

Cut the yarn in the old colour, again making sure that you leave a 5 – 6 inch tail for weaving in later (or you can weave in the ends as you go).

Repeating row 2 throughout the entire blanket, you will make 5 rows of each colour as follows:

Rows 6 – 10: Colour B

Rows 11 – 15: Colour C

Rows 16 – 20: Colour G

Rows 21 – 25: Colour D

Rows 26 – 30: Colour E

Rows 31 – 35: Colour F

Rows 36 – 40: Colour G

Rows 41 – 45: Colour A

Rows 46 – 50: Colour B

Rows 51 – 55: Colour C

Rows 56 – 60: Colour G

Rows 61 – 65: Colour D

Rows 66 – 70: Colour E

Rows 71 – 75: Colour F

Rows 76 – 80: Colour G

Rows 81 – 85: Colour A

Rows 86 – 90: Colour B

Rows 91 – 95: Colour C

Rows 96 – 100: Colour G

Rows 101 -105: Colour D

Rows 106 – 110: Colour E

Rows 111 – 115: Colour F

At the end of the last row, fasten off the yarn and weave in your ends (if you haven’t done so already).

BOBBLE STITCH BORDER

The blanket will now be finished off with a simple border.

The bobbles will be made in the last round. At the end of round 3, you will turn your work. This ensures that the bobbles appear prominently on the RS of the blanket.

The bobbles are achieved by alternating sl st and dc sts (the difference in height between these 2 stitches results in a ‘bobble’).

With the RS of your work facing up, attach your yarn to the top right hand corner of the blanket (see image below):

Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), sc evenly spaced all the way around the blanket, working 2sc in each corner. Sk the ch1 at the beg of the round and sl st to the 1^st sc to join, DO NOT TURN.

When working sc sts down the sides of the blanket, place 5 sc sts along each block of colour (see photo below):