Bear Crochet Baby Blanket (Cute & Easy Tutorial)

Keep baby all snuggly under this adorable bear crochet baby blanket!

The FREE pattern is also accompanied by a VIDEO tutorial… just scroll down to view it.

This post for a bear crochet baby blanket may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

I really love crocheting baby blankets and whether you want to make this blanket for your own baby, gift it to someone else or donate it to charity, you’re sure to enjoy this fun crochet project!

It’s also easy and doesn’t take that much time to work up either.

PROFESSIONAL FINISH

After I completed the blanket, I blocked it by using the steam from my iron.

I didn’t use any pins – I just patted and smoothed it over with my hands.

You can see a little snippet of how I did this in the video tutorial below (you can jump immediately to this section by clicking on the timestamp in the description box).

SUPER CUTE BABY SET

This bear crochet baby blanket is part of a baby set.

There’s a baby onesie, matching baby booties, a bear rattle / teether, and a sweet little pixie bonnet.

The free patterns for all of these other items are on the blog. And they come with video tutorials too 😊

They’re all quick and easy projects, and would make lovely gifts for a new arrival or baby shower.

YARN USED

For this blanket I used Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/6, which is a 100% cotton yarn.

It’s a wonderfully soft cotton with a luxurious drape.

On their website, Hobbii classify this yarn as a #2 / sport / 4 ply yarn but I would say it’s more of a #3 / DK / 8 ply yarn.

I really enjoy using this yarn and it’s my go-to choice when I want to work with cotton.

And with the extensive choice of colours (over 100!), I’m sure it will become a firm favourite of yours too!

SUBSTITUTE YARN

You can work this blanket up using your favourite yarn.

You can use a #3 / DK yarn like I have, or opt for a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook. Or you could work the blanket up using thicker yarn and a larger hook.

It’s totally up to you but just bear in mind that using a different weight of yarn will affect the final size of your blanket.

If you’re ready to learn how to make this super cute bear crochet baby blanket, let’s head to the free pattern now!

VIDEO TUTORIAL

You can view the video for this bear crochet baby blanket below.

There are two parts to the tutorial. Part 2 can be found on my YouTube channel.

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BEAR CROCHET BABY BLANKET: A FREE PATTERN

This post for a bear crochet baby blanket may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.

LEVEL

Easy (see details of project levels at the Craft Yarn Council).

SUPPLIES

• Yarn: Category #3 / DK / 8 ply yarn. I used Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/6,115yds / 1.75oz (105m / 50g) in the following colours:

2 skeins / balls of:

Colour A: Beige (004)

7 skeins / balls of:

Colour B: Baby Blue (032)

1 skein / ball of:

Colour C: White (001)

• Yarn for the eyes and nose: I used a small amount from 1 skein / ball of Hobbii Rainbow Cotton8/8, 82yds/ 1.8oz (75m /50g) in the following colour:

Colour D: Black (009)

• Crochet hook: 3mm (these hooks are fabulous – the yarn just glides off them!)
• Scissors (super sharp… and pretty)
• Tapestry needle (the bent tip makes sewing and weaving in ends much easier)
• Optional: Blocking mats (thick, heat resistant and come with non-rust pins too)

GAUGE / TENSION

Each square measures 4.25″ (10.75cm).

Gauge is not crucial here, but I would recommend that you keep a consistent tension so that all your squares end up the same size.

FINISHED SIZE

28.5″ x 28.5″ (72.25 x 72.25 cm) approx.

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

beg – beginning

BLO – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.

dc2tog – double crochet two together (also known as a dc decrease): Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 3 loops. Dc2tog completed.

fasten off – To fasten off securely, work one chain, then cut the yarn leaving a 5 – 6” tail. Pull the tail through the loop that is on your hook. Tighten gently.

FLO – front loop only

hdc – half double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through all 3 loops. 1 half double crochet completed.

sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.

sk – skip: Do not crochet into this stitch / space.

sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, you will have 2 loops on your hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed.

sp(s) – space(es)

st(s) – stitch(es)

SPECIAL STITCHES:

EXdc- Extended double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into st or sp, pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook, yo, pull through 1 loop (3 loops remain on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo, pull through both loops. I EXdc made.

V-st: (1dc, ch2, 1dc) worked in the same stitch

USEFUL TUTORIALS

• The Extended Double Crochet Stitch (EXdc)
• How to Make an Invisible Join

PATTERN NOTES

• US crochet terms used throughout.
• The blanket is worked in rounds.
• I have modified the solid granny square slightly to ensure that the completed square is the same size as the teddy bear square.
• If you need help with any part of this pattern, please see the video tutorial below.
• The video is divided up into chapters, so you can jump immediately to whatever section you need.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

TEDDY BEAR SQUARE (MAKE 13)

Using Colour A

Make a magic circle. (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).

Round 1. Ch2 (counts as your 1st dc here and throughout), 11dc in the magic circle, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [12 sts].

Alternative Round 1. Ch4, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring, 11dc into the ring, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [12 sts].

Round 2. Ch2, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next 11 sts, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [24 sts].

Round 3. Ch2, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next 23 sts, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [48 sts].

Round 4. Ch1 (does not count as your 1st st) 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 16 sts, 6dc in FLO of next st (1st ear made), 1sc in next 11 sts, 6dc in FLO of next st (2nd ear made), 1sc in next 18 sts, to join sl st to 1st sc or make an invisible join, [58 sts].

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

Change to Colour B

IMPORTANT: Attach your yarn to the BLO of the FIRST STITCH of the last round worked. It is important that you begin the next round in this exact stitch so that the first corner is made directly behind the ear (see photo below):

I inserted my stitch marker into the BLO of the first stitch of the last round – this is where I will attach colour B. 

Round 5. Ch3 (counts as your 1st st here and throughout), 1dc in BLO of next 2 sts, 1EXdc in BLO of next 2sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in BLO of next st, *1EXdc in BLO of next 2 sts, 1dc in BLO of next 7 sts, 1EXdc in BLO of next 2 sts, sk the ear made up of 6dc and in the back loop work (2tr, ch2, 2tr)*, repeat from * to * twice, 1EXdc in BLO of next 2 sts, 1dc in BLO of next 7 sts, 1EXdc in BLO of next 2 sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in BLO of next st, 1EXdc in BLO of next 2sts, 1dc in next 4 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, [15dc on each side of square].

Round 6. Ch3, 1dc in next 6 sts, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 15 sts*, repeat from * to * for a total of 3 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in last ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 8 sts, to join sl st to top of beg ch3 or make an invisible join (for easier seaming later), [19 dc on each side of square].

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

IMPORTANT: If you used the magic circle method in round 1, make sure that you weave in the yarn tail securely so that the middle of your square does not unravel.

SNOUT FOR BEAR HEAD (MAKE 13)

Using Colour C

Make a magic circle. (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).

Round 1. Ch2 (counts as your 1st dc here and throughout), 11dc in the magic circle, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [12 sts].

Alternative Round 1. Ch4, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring, 11dc into the ring, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, [12 sts].

Round 2. Ch1 (does not count as your 1st st), 1hdc in same st, 2hdc in next st, *1hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st*, repeat from * to * for a total of 5 times, to join sl st to 1st hdc or make an invisible join, [18 sts].

ASSEMBLY OF TEDDY BEAR SQUARE

Step 1. Embroider the nose onto the snout (I used a piece of black yarn about 20″ long).

Step 2. Sew the snout onto the teddy bear square.

Step 3. Embroider one eye on either side of the snout (cut about 10″ of black yarn for each eye).

In the video tutorial below, I show you how to do the embroidery and sew on the snout.

SOLID GRANNY SQUARE (MAKE 12)

Using Colour B

Make a magic circle. (if you do not like the magic circle method, see the Alternative Round 1 below).

Round 1. Ch5 (counts as your 1st dc and a ch2), (3dc, ch2) into the magic circle 3 times, 2dc, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch5 to join.

Alternative Round 1. Ch4, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring, ch5 (counts as your 1st dc and a ch2), (3dc, ch2) into the ring 3 times, 2dc, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch5 to join.

Round 2. Ch3 (counts as your 1st dc here and throughout), *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * for a total of 3 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in last ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 2 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, [7dc on each side of square].

Round 3. Ch3, 1dc in next 2 sts, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 7 sts*, repeat from * to * for a total of 3 times, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in last ch2 corner sp, 1dc in next 4 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, [11dc on each side of square].

Round 4. Ch3, 1EXdc in next 4 sts, *(2EXdc, ch2, 2EXdc) in next ch2 corner sp, 1EXdc in next 11 sts*, repeat from * to * for a total of 3 times, (2EXdc, ch2, 2EXdc) in last ch2 corner sp, 1EXdc in next 6 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, [15EXdc on each side of square].

Round 5. Ch3, 1EXdc in next 6 sts, *(2EXdc, ch2, 2EXdc) in next ch2 corner sp, 1EXdc in next 15 sts*, repeat from * to * for a total of 3 times, (2EXdc, ch2, 2EXdc) in last ch2 corner sp, 1EXdc in next 8 sts, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join or make an invisible join (easier when seaming later), [19EXdc on each side of square].

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

IMPORTANT: If you used the magic circle method in round 1, make sure that you weave in the yarn tail securely so that the middle of your square does not unravel.

ARRANGEMENT OF BEAR CROCHET BABY BLANKET

Once you’ve made all your squares, you will arrange them before joining.

Below is a diagram showing you how I decided to arrange my squares:

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JOINING YOUR SQUARES

For this blanket, I used my favourite way of joining granny squares…the flat slip stitch seam.

You can use any method you like to join your squares, but I just love the finished look and how flat the blanket lies.

You can see the photo and video tutorial for the flat slip stitch seam here

BORDER

You will now finish your blanket off with a border consisting of 7 rounds.

Using Colour B

Attach yarn to the ch2 corner sp in the top right hand corner of the blanket.

Round 1. *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 corner sp, 1dc in each st to next ch2 corner sp, working 1 dc2tog over the ch2 sps at each seam*, repeat from * to * 4 times, sl st to 1st dc at beg of round to join.

Work 1 dc2tog over both ch2 sps at the seam area.

Round 2. (Sl st) 3 times to the ch2 corner sp, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 corner sp, **sk next 2 sts, V-st in next st**, repeat from ** to ** to last 3 sts before next ch2 corner sp, sk next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 4 times, sl st to 1st dc at beg of round to join.

Round 3. (Sl st) 3 times to the ch2 corner sp, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 corner sp, ch1, **3dc in next V-st, ch1**, repeat from ** to ** to next ch2 corner sp*, repeat from * to * 4 times, sl st to 1st dc at beg of round to join.

Round 4. (Sl st) 3 times to the ch2 corner sp, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 corner sp, ch1, **3dc in next ch1 sp, ch1**, repeat from ** to ** to next ch2 corner sp*, repeat from * to * 4 times, sl st to 1st dc at beg of round to join. Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

Change to Colour A

Attach yarn to ch2 corner sp.

Round 5. Repeat round 4. Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

Change back to Colour B

Round 6. Repeat round 4.

Round 7. (Sl st) 3 times to the ch2 corner sp, *(ch3, 1dc in next ch1 sp, 5dc around the post of last dc made, 1sc in next ch1 sp) 19 times to next ch2 corner sp, ch4, 1sc in ch2 corner sp*, repeat from * to * 4 times, sl st to 1st ch of beg ch3 to join.

I hope you enjoyed the pattern for this sweet bear crochet baby blanket… leave me a comment below!

Remember to pin the pattern to your board for later if you can’t make it now 😊

If you’re on Instagram, tag me in your photos of the blanket (work-in-progress or finished items) using @maisieandruth.

Happy crocheting!